Week 4: First week in Thailand

A post by Lucia

Day 21: Kangar (Malaysia) to Satun (Thailand) 

After a restful nights sleep and a hearty breakfast of three banana sandwiches: one with jam, one with nutella and one with kaya (kaya is a delicious, Malaysian jam made with coconut, eggs and caramel), we were ready for our 77km day, including crossing into Thailand! We left at 0900; the heat and humidity of the day not quite at its peak just yet.

It was a delightful final cycle through the countryside of rural Malaysia; quiet roads, beautiful landscapes with paddy fields and wide open spaces seemed to wish us a tranquil farewell as we left this amazing country. We began to enter the national park that straddles this section of the border between Malaysia and Thailand and the views were stunning. Then the hills started.

The last mosque and Call to Prayer we encountered in Malaysia. We always find them so captivating and atmospheric.

There are many ways to cross the border from Malaysia into Thailand; because of our planned rough route to continue to follow the west coast north through Southern Thailand, we decided to cross at the Wang Prachan border. When we told Firdaus (the Warmshowers host that treated us to breakfast the day previously) which border we had decided to cross, he looked shocked! Although this is the quietest and least busy border crossing out of the ones we had to choose from, it is certainly the hilliest! However, if I had to choose between very busy roads with lorries, cars and motorbikes whizzing by, or quiet but beautiful roads with some serious hills, I would take the hills. And I’m so glad we did! 

I was quite nervous about the hills to be honest. We hadn’t had any serious inclines since starting the trip (except the hills on Pangkor, but they were very short) and I wasn’t sure whether I had it in me physically and mentally. I did zero training before this trip and I know my stamina and strength is far from its best. I didn’t have a ‘plan’ before we started the incline, all I considered was to just try my best to keep a positive mindset and not get frustrated or snappy! What I found myself doing was setting micro targets as we cycled: e.g. ‘cycle to that yellow sign, then I can stop for a minute for a drink’, or ‘cycle to the this bend then I’ll push the bike until that lamp post and start cycling again’ and so on… By doing this I was just focusing on the small section ahead, and it really helped! Adam was great; he cycled the whole thing (of course!) and kept stopping to take photos or to just wait for me so that we were always in each other’s sights.

Alternating cycling and walking up my first mammoth hill of our adventure.

We stopped in some shade for a rest for a good 20 minutes or so, which was much needed as it was so hot and humid. It sounds silly, but I didn’t even consider stopping and resting, but it reminded me that we are not trying to set any records and have nothing to prove to anyone other than ourselves. After a nice rest, lots of water, some snacks and Adam even got out his drone to see ahead and take some footage of the spectacular national park surrounding us, we continued the ascent to the border. It was a stunning cycle – lush, green forests towered alongside us on both sides with only a few cars interrupting the tranquillity. 

Crawling to the top of the hill.

Before we knew it, we had reached the summit and were rewarded with a sensational downhill. Leaving Malaysia was hassle free, and entering Thailand didn’t take too long. It wasn’t very clear where we needed to go once we entered the Thailand immigration side. We almost cycled through without getting our passports checked and stamped! 

Entering Thailand immigration from Malaysia at this border crossing wasn’t busy at all.

The Malaysian side of the border is absolutely dead: only one little shop selling snacks and drinks. In comparison, the Thai side has teams of stalls selling food, cheap clothes, trinkets and household items and was thriving with people. Luckily the road was still relatively quiet, so with huge grins on our faces, we pedalled gleefully into country number three.

Big smiles as we enter Thailand – country number 3.

The roads leaving the border were equally quiet and beautiful as onthe Malaysian side. We would highly recommend this border crossing. Huge rock formations and hills spring out of the ground as if from nowhere; the paddy fields the greenest and the sky the most blue I have ever seen. 

Stunning Thailand greeted us immediately.

At about 60km, the heat and humidity of the day persuaded us to stop for an hour for a much needed rest. We found an unoccupied sturdy, raised platform on stilts under a thatched roof: a seemingly perfect place for weary, hot bicycle tourists to lay their sweaty heads for an hour in the shade. Upon lying down, we almost instantly fell asleep. Unfortunately for me, I think a nest of greedy ants had their beady eyes on me, as later on I was to find legions of small red bites covering my arms, legs and back (they were definitely not mosquito bites – I get enough of those to know one when I have one [or rather a million!]) But there and then, we were grateful for the nap and set back off to complete the days ride feeling a little bit refreshed for our sleep. We only had 17km left to do for the day, but the sun continued to blaze down on us. 

Luckily for us, we had a fantastic Warmshowers host to stay with for our first night in Thailand: Pot was a gracious and very hospitable host, with whom we really enjoyed spending time with. His (very cute) 6 year old son had brilliant English for such a young age, and enjoyed speaking to us as well. Pot and Alexander took us to a local night market; as it was 6km away, we rode our bicycles there. It felt so strange cycling without our panniers!! Alexander asked if he could ride on the back of Adam’s bike – how could he say no?! He looked so little sat on the back rack with his Dad’s bright orange motorcycle helmet on (which was obviously absolutely huge on him!). 

Adam and Alexander are ready to go to the night market!

The traffic cycling into Satun was busier than I expected, and I was very glad Alexander had his helmet on (and wished I had mine on too!) The night market was much busier than the one we went to in Malaysia. We wandered the bustling, narrow corridors of stalls, buying and eating as we went. Pot then took us to a restaurant, but as we were almost full from the night market, we settled for our favourite roti canai, this time drenched in sweet, condensed milk with a side bowl of sugar. It was amazing! 

The cycle back to Pot’s was slightly uncomfortable for me in the dark on the busy streets with no helmet, but we reached his house without injury. After the long day and full bellies, we were ready for a good nights sleep. 

Day 22: Satun to Pak Bara

As we lay almost awake on the 22nd day of our SE Asia adventure, a loud and clumsy slap on the door brought us to fully awake. I hastily dressed and opened the door to find Pot’s other son, 3 year old Allan, who consequently bounded playfully into the room. 

Alexander and Allen wanted to play bright and early!

Pot generously treated us to a delicious, traditionally Thai breakfast. Alongside glutinous rice parcels wrapped in banana leaves, a spicy Thai curry with rice left us feeling satisfied and ready for the 73km day ahead. After another photo for our memories, we set off for another day pedalling under the sun.

It’s never easy to get a photo with an energetic three year old!

After a quick stop off at a big store called ‘Big C’ for Thai sim cards, we were thankful to leave the busy main road in Satun and get back onto our favourite quiet country roads. The app ‘Maps.Me’ provided nearly the whole day of amazing, off the beaten path tracks. We cycled along gravel paths (not my favourite I must admit, I do prefer my tarmac!) lined with rows upon rows of rubber tree forests. 

The palm oil farms of Malaysia have been replaced with Thailand’s rubber tree forests.

The flat roads of Malaysia were now far behind us, and the rolling hills of Thailand beckoned us. They were very manageable and actually enjoyable! Although most often we enjoy listening to the sounds around us, we do also both enjoy listening to podcasts as we cycle. As we continued to pedal under the tropical sun, listening to podcasts and taking in the breathtaking scenery up and down rolling Thai hills, I thought to myself, ‘This. Is. The. Life’; each day I have to pinch myself that this is our life currently and how very lucky we are. 

Keep rolling, rolling, rolling.

We stayed in a ‘resort’ for the night, almost like a little chalet on stilts with a bedroom and bathroom. Great aircon and wifi – just what we need after a long day cycling in the hot weather. We had to cycle out to find food for our dinner, it didn’t take long to find a little food stall next to a mosque down the road. We enjoyed delicious egg fried rice with chicken, and you guessed it, roti canai for dessert. All was perfect was it not for those countless pesky ant bites, and throw in a fair few mosquito bites to join them. They just love my blood type! 

Day 23: Pak Bara to Ban Thung Yao

After a few early rise mornings this week to set off on the bikes at a good early(ish) hour, we had a well deserved lie in on this day. We didn’t set off cycling until about midday, which meant the sun was at her most ferocious. But it was worth it to spend a couple of extra hours in bed; Adam edited and published a video about our experience at Taiping War Cemetery (which you can watch here). We decided not to book accommodation ahead for that evening, but instead, we wanted to try our luck camping. We had heard from other bicycle tourists that many Buddhist Temples welcome bicycle tourists to camp in their monasteries. So before we set off, we spotted a temple on Google Maps about 50km away, and loaded a Maps.Me route to get there.

As we went to check out of the ‘resort’, they surprised us with an unexpected free breakfast. Unfortunately, I’m not sure how long it had been ready for us (they probably expected us slightly earlier than 1130!) and I assume it had been sat out on the side for a while, as there were tiny ants crawling all over the plate. I even had ants cooked directly into my fried egg. We nibbled on a slice of bread and devoured a slice of watermelon to not appear rude, before setting off on our way.

After our routine quick stop off to load our panniers with snacks (very important for a bicycle tourists to carry snacks at all times! Especially if you’re Adam: he wants to avoid experiencing hangry Lucia!), you guessed it: we had another stunning day of quiet, beautifully scenic roads all the way to our final destination. 

Most of Thailand’s busier roads have a good sized hard shoulder for motorbikes and cyclists alike.

We reached the town of Ban Thung Yao at about 5pm. We found a small street cafe and enjoyed an amazing meal of pork noodles in a broth. Outside of the touristy areas, English is hardly spoken at all. Compared to Malaysia where their official second language is English, this results in difficult communication with the Thai people. However, we are lucky that Adam and I will basically eat anything! With no allergies or special dietary requirements, we tend to point to what someone else is eating and then point at ourselves, signing an eating movement to indicate, “I’ll have what they’re having!” So far, this has resulted in some seriously tasty meals. 

One of the tastiest meals we’ve had in Thailand so far (there are noodles under all that pork!)

Before the sun set, we cycled to the Buddhist Temple we had found on the map earlier that morning. The sound of their evening prayers welcomed us before we even set eyes on the exquisite, ornate buildings that made up the monastery. Cycling through the gates, we were ‘unwelcomed’ by a pack of stray dogs. Around 10 dogs raced towards us, barking fiercely at us as they protected their territory. We leaned our bikes against a wall and headed towards the reception area, ignoring the dogs who thankfully kept their distance. Adam spoke to the monk who greeted us; he had very little English. However, it quickly became apparent that we were welcome to stay, and he consequently showed us where we could pitch our tent in what appeared to be their dining area. It was perfect: it was open air but underneath a roof so that we could have the rainproof cover off the tent and therefore be much cooler during the night. 

Our first-night camping in a Buddhist Temple.

The kind monk even brought us some cartons of cold, sesame flavoured soya milk drink and showed us where the toilets were; there was even a shower. We could not believe our luck. As dusk approached, we set up our tent and got ready to settle down for the evening as quietly as we could, as across from us the monks and local Buddhists were having their evening prayers. The stray dogs continued to prowl around; fortunately, there were waist high walls with metal gates in the ‘building’ where we had set up our tent, so no dogs could get in. 

The evening’s prayers ceased just as the sun set, and after a nice cold shower to wash away the heat, sweat and muck from the day, we headed into the tent for an early night. As we drifted off to sleep, the heavens opened and I felt so happy, comfortably in the tent – nice and dry but with amazing ventilation so it wasn’t too hot (like when we camped on Pangkor Island). The dogs slept nearby, luckily not barking too much during the night. 

The beautiful Buddhist temple we were lucky to sleep next to.

Day 24: Ban Thung Yao to Trang

It’s 0420. The deep, meditative Buddhist chanting begins quietly and quickly crescendos into a loud chant that continues for 2 hours. As we lie there in the dark, trying to get back to sleep, we pinch ourselves at this surreal experience. We love this. At 0600, just as the sun is rising, we resign ourselves that sleep will not return, and begin to pack away our sleeping kit and tent, happy to have, for us, a very early start to our day. 

The generous and kind monk who greeted us yesterday arrives and signs to us to come and enjoy breakfast. He shows us into another open-air room, and brings us packets of instant noodles, bowls and spoons – showing us where to add hot water from a water dispenser. We gladly accept and enjoy our irregular but well-received breakfast. To add to his generosity, he also brings us small cakes, a ‘vicks inhaler’ type contraption, a small bottle of mosquito repellent and a small tube of cooling gel. We receive gratefully, and he manages to ask us if we are on Facebook! (This is one popular monk with over 4,000 friends! He must be well known in the area.) Once he has found us online and added us as ‘Friends’, he asks for a picture with us. I am very conscious that there is a strict rule that forbids monks to touch women, and vice versa, so I carefully sit on the floor next to him to avoid any contact. 

An amazing and surreal experience.

Enjoying our breakfast of instant noodles.

With this extraordinary and dreamlike experience coming to an end, we loaded our bikes and, after leaving a donation to the monastery (this, we have heard, is the polite thing to do in this situation and a way for us to show our gratitude for letting us stay the night) we pedalled away into the cool, morning air. The dogs gave us more fearful barks and growls as we passed, but taking a leaf out of the monk’s book, I made a short, sharp loud noise at them and they backed off.

More delightful Maps.Me routes led us through peaceful and tranquil Thai villages. This day of cycling, although picturesque, was my first where I felt on edge and nervous. There are many, many more dogs in Thailand compared to Malaysia. Some of them are strays, but countless houses in the villages have – perhaps adopted – stray dogs and have them as pets. Most of them are too hot and lazy to bother lifting more than an eyelid as you cycle passed. However, there are also territorial, dominant dogs who dangerously sprint away from the home they’re protecting, barking violently and attempting to bite any moving part, be it bicycle or leg. To be honest, it made me really nervous cycling through the villages – so much so that I began to consider if I would prefer to cycle on the busier roads, where there would be fewer dogs. We had a few encounters that really panicked me and made me feel very uncomfortable and nervous. Although we have a dog (who my Mum is very kindly looking after whilst we’re away, and who is the gentlest dog I have ever come across) since I was a little girl I have always been nervous of dogs I don’t know when they’re barking. Even if it’s a playful bark! I remember when I first met Adam: his family had two huge rottweilers called Mylo and Tara. When I first went to his house, they naturally barked at me, and I was terrified! As I met them, it became clear that they were incredibly friendly and absolutely harmless, sweet dogs. But my natural fear of barking dogs and this situation of wild dogs chasing us on our bikes (which will no doubt continue throughout rural Thailand and in many other countries we will cycle through) is something I need to tackle head on.

We reached the city of Trang at about 1330, as it was only a 59km day and we had such an early start. We had cycled through a torrential downpour, so we were grateful to get to our guesthouse. We are staying at the very comfortable and clean ‘Sleepers House’ near the train station. The room is really spacious and we even have a little balcony. We are looking forward to having a day off the bikes tomorrow and we have decided to have a ‘lazy Sunday’ (even though its Wednesday). Our plan is to have a lie in, do some bike maintenance and other ‘admin’ type things. 

A man gets some beauty sleep in the local market!

Day 25: A day off in Trang

Nothing much to report – a lovely, slow ‘Sunday’ on a Wednesday: bike admin; blog/website and youtube channel admin, we popped to a bike shop for another inner tube (we always carry one spare each), etc etc. There isn’t a huge amount to see in Trang; there is a night market on a weekend, but as we were there midweek we missed it. The guesthouse we were staying in was so comfortable and friendly -we enjoyed a much slower paced day.

I think we were the only guests in this guesthouse; we would definitely recommend this place.

Day 26: Trang to Khao Pu – Khao Ya National Park

After another exciting breakfast of ‘jambana’ sandwiches, we left Trang and headed east. We have decided, rather than continuing up the west coast (like we have done pretty much since we left Singapore) we would like to explore the east coast. We might explore an island or two on that side – we’ll see.

We were really excited to cycle through the Khao Pu – Khao Ya National Park. As we’ve mentioned, we love the rural, quiet, forests and mountains, so we were excited for what would lie ahead. Soon, the busier streets surrounding Trang thinned and hushed, gradually resulting in those peaceful and lazy villages. This was where I knew we would encounter what was making me so nervous two days previously: those hungry hounds. 

One of the reasons I have decided to do this adventure with Adam, one of my motivations, is to (this sounds corny) grow. To grow and develop in my areas of weakness. Confidence in my ability to succeed in difficulties is one of those things; facing and challenging myself to attempt (and hopefully succeed in) the things I find difficult. So when the first dog tried his luck, racing out of his garden headed straight for us whilst barking menacingly, I employed my loud, sharp, harsh ‘HEY!’ and he stopped right in his tracks! He came forward again and I repeated my demand. He retreated! Running back to the safety of his front garden, he continued to bark as we pressed on but from the safety of his home. Success! My adrenaline was pumping fast: I’m not used to being in these high-pressure and dangerous situations. (I may sound like I’m exaggerating here, but if one of those savage beasts bites my leg it’s game over for a while whilst we have to go through the rigmarole of rabies jabs! Besides, it would likely really, really hurt!) This continued to happen throughout the day a few more times, and I really got into the swing and actually found myself seeing a dog and thinking, ‘Come and get me then!’ It’s amazing how quickly my confidence grew from yesterday’s worry and nerves to feeling in control as I experienced success in scaring off the scary dogs. 

As we continued through the national park, the scenery got more and more beautiful. Those beautiful, lush, green forests we enjoy so much did not disappoint. As we decided on the route, however, I seriously underestimated how hilly it would be!! We had 602m of climb, which is even more than we had on the border crossing from Malaysia to Thailand. However, similarly to the dog situation: I’ve done some hills now and my confidence is growing. I just let my legs keep spinning in the lowest ‘granny gear’ I have, a little bit of walking and pushing, but mostly cycling – and we made it to the summit.

Beautiful views always make the uphills slightly easier.

Just as we reached the top of the hills, the heaven’s burst their banks. Simultaneously, Adam’s chain broke… excellent timing. As the rain pelted and smashed us, Adam gathered his chain, stuffed it into his handlebar bag and free-wheeled down the hill – hoping to find some shelter to organise himself to try to fix his chain. 

As we reached the bottom of the hill, the rain came to a sudden halt, ending just as quickly as it had started. Also at the base of the hill, there was a house. A lovely, local Thai man offered Adam a glass of water. He gladly accepted and asked if he could use the space outside his house to fix his chain. They gladly allowed this and brought us sweet snacks and tea. What generosity! After a short while, Adam’s chain was fixed and we could be on our way. We hadn’t planned or booked any accommodation for that evening, hoping to find a guest house or place to camp in the national park. We had actually planned to stop for the day very near to the hospitable house at the base of the hill. Mr Thong, as we would later discover his name, and his family spoke almost no English, but we managed to determine that they were offering for us to camp in their front porch area. This was fantastic news! As we hadn’t eaten, they showed us a road side cafe we could get some chicken and rice from before we set up our tent outside their house. 

This lovely family accommodated our tent on their front porch. The generosity of local people continues to inspire us.

Adam continued tinkering with his bike whilst I sat with their family, attempting to have a conversation via google translate. They were incredibly friendly and kind, continuing to offer snacks, drinks and plentiful smiles. At about 8.30pm, they asked if we were tired and they retired inside, leaving us to get an early night in our tent.

Day 27: Khao Pu – Khao Ya National Park to Hua Sai

Wanting to live up to his stereotype, the family’s cockerel blasted out his morning chorus loud and clear, before the sun had risen. The Thong family were also early risers and were sat outside at their table by 0600am, chatting merrily. I sat up in the tent and was greeted to a cheery ‘Good Morning!’ I was treated to a lovely, hot coffee and showered with snacks from the get go as Adam took a little longer to come round (he’s not a morning person!) A monk arrived and the eldest daughter of the family went to him with a bowl of freshly cooked food. Putting her palms together, she bowed her head as he, I think, blessed her or said some prayers. It was a really interesting and enlightening interaction to encounter. 

Gradually, we packed our things away and got ready for the day ahead. We were gifted some delicious breakfast of fried chicken and rice, which filled our stomachs – the generosity continuing to fill our hearts. Mr Thong encouraged us to have a morning swim in their waterfall. Yes – this family have a waterfall right next door to their house; literally 30 seconds walk away. It was amazing! We, of course, went for a swim: the perfect way to start the day. 

This waterfall looked more beautiful in real life.

 

A morning swim made us very happy!

With our panniers packed and our bellies full, we bid farewell to our gracious and generous spontaneous hosts. The kindness and hospitality they showed to us at a low moment will not be long forgotten. 

โกวิทย์ ส้งข์ทอง and Krongnet outside their beautiful house.

As we cycled out of the national park, we did the last bit of nice cycling for the day really. The rest of the day was pretty nondescript, to be honest! I think we had been spoiled by the stunning scenery of the previous day and morning.

Stunning views as we left the National Park.

To make matters worse, we ended up on a terrible, gravelling, rocky road full of potholes. This was followed by a hideously muddy road lined with palm oil trees, the thick mud splattering up our legs. The road got continually worse as we pedalled down the worst yet: clay. Clay paths are not so bad when it’s dry, but wet clay? Ugh! It clogged and caked up our wheels; it became almost impossible to even pedal as the wet clay made a seal between the wheel and the mudguard. It’s safe to say, I was not amused. I was furious actually. I kept slipping and sliding around, really struggling to even turn the wheels.

Not a happy bunny!

Another area in which I need to grow is in managing my emotions when I become stressed and angry! I take it out on Adam – when he’s trying to help I snap at him when it’s not his fault. He is very patient though and makes me aware of how I am reacting in this situation is not the best way. All I can do is be mindful of this, and next time I find myself feeling this way, double check myself and take a few deep breaths before I open my mouth to snap! 

We eventually made it off the horrible roads onto a busier, but thankfully tarmacked, road. We stopped for some lunch – delicious noodles with prawns – and headed off again to do the final 10km of the day. The daily mid-afternoon downpour had begun, but we didn’t mind: we used it as a chance to try to get some of the mud off the bikes that had clung on like a bad smell.

Finally arriving at our room for the night (we booked on Agoda the night before) we set to cleaning all of our belongings that had fallen victim to the mud. Each pannier had a good hose down in the shower, followed by the bikes!

Our bikes no longer looked so ‘fresh and new’!

Adam’s having a little trouble with his front disc break, but after a few hours of fiddling, he has fixed it. As I was expecting my bike after his shower, I realised – in horror – that the screw and washers holding one part of the front rack to the fork had disappeared. Likely, when I had been crashing through potholes on one of the horrendous roads from today. This was a bit of a disaster; we didn’t have any spares to replace the missing parts, and without the rack being connected to the bike at that point, it made it very unstable, especially carrying weight. Luckily, Adam is very thrifty. He used a section of a wire coat hanger, threading it through the holes of the rack and fork and folding it over tightly to form a tight bond. Genius!

Tomorrow we continue up the east coast of Thailand, dodging the rain showers and dogs. 

Day 28: Hua Sai to Nakhon Si Thammarat

Today has been a much better day. After our usual routine of packing all our panniers and wolfing down our breakfast of banana sandwiches, we set off for an 80km day. It was raining as we headed out, but not too heavily. It felt nice to have clean bikes with all chains and breaks working smoothly after Adam’s hard work last night.

The first part of today was pretty dull to be honest. Although we were on the coastal road, we could only catch glimpses of the sea between the stretches of grassy land and wooden shacks. It was a busy type of road, however, there weren’t many cars passing us. We had a good hard shoulder so we just put on our podcasts and made some distance.

We stopped after about 40km for a rest. Finding an empty pier that looked like it had just been built, we cycled along until we were over the sea and pulled out the black ground sheet we keep handy to sit down to devour some snacks we had bought from the 7/11 that morning. I had a little sleep as I was feeling quite tired today. After an hour, I pumped my tires up as I felt like they were a bit low, and we got back on the road, feeling more refreshed for the break. 

Part two of today improved. We came off the coastal road and started heading west towards Nakhon Si Thammarat, our final destination for the day. These roads were much nicer; we were back to travelling through the sleepy villages, past coconut trees and little food and drink stalls. We had one or two confident dogs try their luck chasing us, but my short, loud command proved to be successful again. I feel so much more confident in this situation now. 

This is exactly how I imagined cycling through Thailand would be like!

We arrived at our hotel, ‘Teeny House’ after 4.5 hours of cycling a distance of 81.3km, but just under 8 hours since we left Hua Sai. Stopping for an hour for lunch, an hour for dinner and then smaller stops for water/juice/snacks/photos etc. This works really well for us. We stopped off at a restaurant when we arrived into the town, so we didn’t have to leave our accommodation when we arrive – we like to just get into our comfy clothes and relax, as we’re usually understandably tired after a long day cycling in the humidity. Tomorrow we are continuing north along the coast towards Surat Thani. Although we are considering heading to one or two of the islands just before there for a bit of a chill and perhaps enjoy a cheap beer or two. 

Thanks for reading!

Lucia xx

1 comment

Granny Grunt

10.10pm Thursday11th October.Just read your blog.So,so,very very informative,interesting Lucia.Wow what an exciting time you are having,I feel excited for you both.Keep it up you lovely people.Thinking about you all the time.Lots of love xxxxxxxx

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