Eating Bugs and Climbing Mountains in Thailand

A post by Lucia

Day 50: Salokbat to Kamphaeng Phet

After cycling 216km in the past two days, we felt we deserved a mini lie in. Considering we only had 75km (compared to the previous two days), we had time to set off a little later and do some laptop admin. Eating grapes in bed for breakfast, we enjoyed a slow start to the day. 

We left out hotel at about 1100. It was extremely hot today; one of the hottest days we’ve had so far on the trip. No matter how much water we drank, it felt like we just couldn’t quench our thirst. Our first road led us towards the river. It was very wide and quiet – possibly because it was Sunday morning.

We spotted a roadside stall selling some sort of food wrapped in a triangular prism of banana leaves. Hedging our bets that it would be a nice ‘second breakfast’, we bought one each alongside some moist, dumplings containing chives. The mystery banana leaf packages contained sticky rice parcels with a boiled egg, dates and possibly chicken. Both food items weren’t a ‘taste sensation’, but it was fairly tasty and gave us the necessary energy to continue pedalling through the midday heat.

Today’s ride verged on boring. After we turned left onto the road next to the river, we stayed on this road all the way to Kamphaeng Phet. Initially, I envisaged this would be a pleasant, quiet road with a stunning river view to our left. Unfortunately, we didn’t see the river for the whole journey. There was just a little bit too much land between the road and the river for them to see one another. We cycled through some countryside, enjoying views of banana trees and green fields, but a lot of the road was quite industrious. Warehouses, factories and large stores selling things such as car parts dominated most of the road. 

There were a few towns dotted along the road, enabling us to stop for lunch – more chicken and rice, and we treat ourselves to a fresh waffle from a roadside stall. We are endeavouring to make more effort with our Thai, so we ordered our chicken and rice in Thai and were successful! Tomorrow we’ll try to order something different. 

Adam found this hat on the road and used some plastic to make a chin strap. I wonder how long he will stick with it, especially on the downhills.

Podcasts and music kept us going along the monotonous road. Thailand is so very beautiful, it is unusual for us to cycle on such a mundane road in this country, but we’ll let her off as we have been blessed with breathtaking routes so far and we know we have some stunning roads to come. 

As per usual, arriving into the large town of Kamphaeng Phet was fairly busy – to be expected. Instead of heading straight to our hotel, we took a detour to the night market beside the river to get some food before we crashed for the night. Adam was pretty chuffed to order another plate of chicken and rice in Thai. After enjoying our meal, I looked after the bikes whilst Adam went to explore the market. To my horror, he came back with a bag of bugs: grasshoppers, bamboo worms and huge crickets. His attempt to persuade me to partake in some bug tasting failed. I flat out refused, so he had to consume the whole bag! I watched in horror as he ate each bug; it made me feel sick just watching him! 

Bugs for sale

 

Adam eating a grasshopper

 

Finishing with a Water Beetle. My face says it all!

After finishing his delightful dessert of bugs, Adam navigated us the final few kms to our hotel: Three J Guesthouse. This is one of our favourite places we have stayed so far on the trip. It is made up of the main building which is the home of owner, Mr Charin. Walking to the side of the building there’s a garden; a path lined with plants and flowers leads you to several bamboo bungalows where the rooms are. Each room has a private table out the front and there are several areas adorned with flowers, orchids and palms to relax, enjoy a coffee or eat the breakfast they sell. 

Upon arriving, we decided to book for an extra night and enjoy a day off the bikes tomorrow. We’ve cycled 370km in the last 4 days, and I am feeling quite tired from the time in the saddle and the heat. Plus, our previous rest day was spent hiking up a waterfall, so it’s been about 11 days since we had a proper rest day! We’re looking forward to a peaceful, slow day tomorrow, with lots of rest and a gentle exploration of Kamphaeng Phet. 

The sunset, just before arriving in Kamphaeng Phet.

Day 51: Rest day in Kamphaeng Phet

We are currently enjoying our beautiful surroundings in Three J Guesthouse. Sat on the top floor of a tin roof structure within the garden, it’s the perfect place to have a restful afternoon catching up with video editing and blogging. 

This morning, we had a long lie (we do like our lie-ins!) With bags devoid of panniers, we set off at about 1100 again, heading towards the Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park. Made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991, it contains ruins from the 14th – 16th century. The ruins are set within a shady forest; it was delightful to cycle through the quiet, tranquil forest, the trees providing us with respite from the fiery sun as we leisurely cycled from ruin to ruin. We have read that these ruins aren’t as spectacular as the ruins in nearby Sukothai, but we like the underdog. 

It’s a strange but amazing feeling to take the panniers off the bikes; it was the best way to explore the ancient ruins.

Afterwards, we headed back towards the centre in search of food. I thought there would be places to eat and chill out along the River Ping, however it was pretty empty. It seems it comes alive in the evening when the night market opens. So we pedalled back towards the hotel, and found a small cafe for some more, you guessed it, chicken and rice. 

We’re now chilling in the hotel before heading back to the night market later, which I am almost dreading. In a moment of madness, I caved in to Adam’s incessant pleading and agreed to try some bugs…! I am now regretting that moment of weakness in my defences against Adam’s appeal. But it won’t kill me… I guess when in Rome… (or Thailand!) 

Day 52: Kamphaeng Phet to Tak

After narrowly escaping an a la carte menu of crickets and other beastly bugs last night, I had a solid 12 hours sleep on our rest day which gave me buckets of energy to continue cycling today. We left Three J Guesthouse and started pedalling north, towards Tak.

A mere 1 mile into our journey out of the town we spotted a fruit stall, so we stopped for some delicious, cold fruit and banana leaf wrapped sticky rice snacks for breakfast. Our bellies full from our healthy breakfast, off we went.

Can’t beat a breakfast of fresh fruit to start the day.

Today’s cycle followed one secondary road running beside the River Ping (again), all the way to Tak. It was much more scenic and enjoyable than the previous cycle from Salokbat to Kamphaeng Phet. With beautiful green fields, banana trees, sugar cane fields, rice paddy fields and other crops I’m not sure what they were. Wooden houses and the odd hamlet were scattered alongside the road but in general, it was a quiet and peaceful ride with lots to see and admire. (Most of the busy traffic is on the other side of the river, on the main highway 1, but we did get some vehicles and trucks passing us. A generous hard shoulder, as always, kept us a good distance from them). 

We had done 30km of easy riding, despite the continuous heat, when we decided to find somewhere for lunch. I spotted one roadside cafe, but as the owners were sleeping, I thought it best not to disturb them! We continued on and found another, less asleep, cafe where we enjoyed a tasty dish of noodles and pork. 

The rest of the day continued on with pleasant vistas, including various hues of mountains on the horizon. We enjoyed some rolling hills, nothing too steep and it kept the cycle more interesting. We also relished a good few kms of cycling through an unexpected forest; the shade from the trees providing a much-appreciated respite from the sun. 

The ever-changing scenery of Thailand.

Before we knew it, we were cycling into Tak. The hotel Adam booked is on the outskirts, and the route took us through some back roads to reach it. For 340 baht (£8), we have a clean, spacious room with air con, speedy wifi and a hot shower. Tomorrow, onwards – North to Chiang Mai!

Day 53: Tak to Khun Phawo National Park

Last night, we deliberated and discussed our plan for the next section of our route. We gave ourselves two options:

  1. Head north – straight up to Chiang Mai. We would be there in about four days and as we have almost a month of our Thai visa left, we could spend two weeks chilling and enjoying some relaxing time in the city.
  2. Head west – towards Mae Sot, the border town between Thailand and Myanmar. Once there, we would then head north, hugging the border between the two countries. This route would lead us to the notoriously hilly and difficult, ‘Mae Hong Son loop’. These stretches of roads would enable us to see and cycle through beautiful hills and mountains, experience the hill tribe people native to the Thai/Burmese border and enjoy a cooler temperature in the higher altitude. 

We talked long and hard before deciding on option 2. For a few reasons:

  • It will be a beautiful and memorable experience.
  • It will be culturally interesting to experience the Northern area of Thailand and how the local people live here compared to other areas of Thailand, noticing the influences of neighbouring Myanmar and China.
  • It will be tough (yes – that is a positive!). One of my motivations for doing this cycle tour is to push myself physically and mentally, and so far, the roads have been mostly flat, flat, flat. So with my warm-up well and truly accomplished, it’s time to challenge myself. The sense of pride I will hopefully feel to have cycled such a tough route will be amazing. Arriving into Chiang Mai will be so much more satisfying knowing how hard we have worked to get there.
  • As we have a month left on our Thai visa, we will still get to enjoy several days off in Chiang Mai. Not as many as we would if we cycled straight there, but enough to get a feel for the city without getting bored. If we had stayed in Chiang Mai for two weeks, we definitely would have run the risk of spending too much money in a city, which would inevitably lead us to feeling guilty. 
  • Also, we get to see other places that we’ve heard great things about: Mae Sariang, Mae Hong Son, Pai and the majestic National Park areas in the north-west of Thailand. 
  • We have time! And it’s great to make the most of it.

The only downside to option two is it will be bloody tough. The hills will be gruelling, but we will just take it a day at a time. The beauty of cycle touring and bringing a tent and your own cooking equipment is that if it’s getting to the end of the day and you can’t pedal up any more hills, you find somewhere on the side of the road, or in a police station, outside National Parks, highway maintenance buildings – wherever, pitch up your tent, cook up some noodles, eat, sleep, wake up refreshed and carry on the next day. 

So this morning, we set our alarm, which is unlike us, as we knew we had 85km to do with 1,800m of climb… yes you read that right!! We were up at 0700, left the hotel by 0830. Stopping off at Tesco Lotus to stock up on supplies meant that we were later than we would have like finally getting on the road properly. Tesco Lotus is so huge with a maze of shops, it always takes ages to get the things we need. We stocked up on supplies for if we were to camp (noodles, pasta, pesto, Nutella, peanut butter, bread, oats) plus we bought some breakfast and snacks for the hard day ahead. My panniers noticeably heavier (I carry most of the food as Adam carries the tent), we finally got on the road at about 0930/1000. 

We left Tak and took the main highway towards Mae Sot. We decided to take this route as we knew there would be a large hard shoulder and it was the quickest route. The whole day was pretty much a continuous uphill climb, with some epic downhills after 30km. The first 20km was not strikingly steep; the mega hill started at around the 20km point. The first part of the route was a nice warm-up and not too strenuous. There were a few shops such as a 7/11, cafes and such and we cycled along on that good hard shoulder. 

The first big bugger of a hill started as I say, at around the 20km point. Nice and warmed-up, I put a ‘You Can Do It’ playlist on Spotify, cracked my gears down to the lowest possible granny gear, and took it nice and slow. We had 800m of non-stop climbing: it was tough. It was steep. My legs were burning – it took all my effort not to give up and start walking, but I didn’t. I just kept spinning my legs slowly. I did stop and walk on two occasions, but each time not for very long at all. I’m pretty proud of myself for that. Stopping when I needed to, to just have a rest for a minute, drink some water and take in the stunning surroundings, I kept a positive mindset. As the road seemed to run through two national parks, the surroundings really were stunning. It made the climb more bearable. 

The start of our route from Tak to Mae Sot.

 

The start of the steep climb.

Adam was a little ‘hill-dodger’ for that first big climb! Using his fearless initiative, he grabbed hold of the back of slow-moving trucks and lorries and allowed himself to be pulled up the hill… I laughed and shook my head, mumbling, ‘What a cheater!’ as I continued to labour up the climb. I didn’t mind so much – I would have done the same if I had any upper body strength to speak of and the confidence to control my bike next to those huge, relentless wheels of the trucks. But I didn’t see Adam at times for 20 minutes or so (I am very slow up those hills!), but it was quite nice to cycle solo for a little while, just concentrating on myself and going at my own, gradual pace. 

Adam hitching a lift on the back of a container lorry.

Those 10km were possibly the slowest 10km of the trip so far (for me anyway!). It was a continuous cycle of arriving at the top of an epic climb where Adam would be waiting at the top, sat patiently waiting after his luxurious hitch. There were tiny downhills that were over in a flash before the next uphill slog commenced. 

Once we got to 34km, we were delighted to find an amazing market, where local Hill Tribes people come to sell their fresh fruit and vegetables. With such a tremendous variety of vibrant, colourful produce, it was an incredible sight to see after that first arduous climb. In addition to the market, there’s a small building hosting a sort of ‘mini museum’ or information centre, educating visitors on the different tribes in this area. They also sold locally made produce in the information centre, such as bags, purses and clothes. 

Delicious, fresh foods awaited us at the top of the first big mountain.

 

We are now seeing the changes in the way people dress in the hills towards Myanmar. We also appreciated the fact they were selling tons of pumpkins on Halloween.

We sincerely enjoyed slowly strolling around the market, gazing in wonder at the array of bright fruits and vegetables, some of which were unfamiliar and exotic to us. I wanted to buy it and try it all! We did buy a bag of passion fruits, as the seller tempted us with a sample coated in local honey. It tasted divine. We did need to have a proper meal, and luckily I spotted a cafe tucked away in the corner of the market. A good plate of minced pork and egg fried rice fuelled us up for the second big climb to come…

Every cycle tourists favourite sign.

As we continued along the main highway, we were treated to a wonderful downhill. It was just amazing, with stunning vistas of hills and mountains all around us. These are the moments where you feel so happy to be alive in this place, in this moment. The downhill was steep, which was a bit scary for me. I’m not used to travelling at such speeds on a bike, and felt quite vulnerable going so fast with nothing between me and the concrete ground. At times, we could pick up speeds of 40mph. I’m a bit of a chicken, so my brakes took some hammering! Adam, as you would expect, gleefully flew down in his absolute element. To add another aspect to the downhill exhilaration, after the market the road really began to deteriorate. There are some major roadworks as they upgrade the highway connecting Thailand and Myanmar. This means that, in places, the road was gravelly with many potholes and swerves left and right as the road fluctuates between one side and the other as they upgrade one side of the road. In addition, the hard shoulder had disappeared, resulting in the traffic being much closer than we would have liked. This made the downhill sprint even scarier for me and added another level for Adam. 

The views are worth the tough climbs.

Before long and far too soon, I was back in my granny gear as the second long slog of an uphill began. Again, these were steep and relentless. At about 65km, the sun was starting to set, (where had that come from!? It snuck up on us…) and I knew we still had 20km to do before we reached Mae Sot. We also didn’t know how much more slow climb we had left to do. I really started to struggle. I was exhausted; I’m absolutely not used to such strenuous activity and such physically hard uphills. Cycling 118km on the flat? Yes, I can do that without too much effort with the appropriate breaks. But such steep hills, all day, with a heavy touring bike? It took its toll. This was a new level entirely. 

My exhaustion made me weak: I was struggling to keep the bike handlebars straight and I kept nearly veering off the curb down into the road works to our left. At each bend and corner, I would think, ‘Surely this is the end of this second uphill… can we have the downhill now please?!’ But the uphill was not finished with us yet. At this point, my tiredness and exhaustion overwhelmed me, and I started to get emotional. Sobs bubbled up from my throat and tears stung my eyes; I wasn’t angry or upset with anyone or anything in particular, just the sheer exhaustion. Adam has stopped to wait for me at a bend, and when he saw me choking back sobs, he made us stop. Giving me a big hug, he encouraged me and lifted my spirits, commenting on how amazingly I had done today and how proud of me he was. We shared a few passion fruits and a small banana muffin for an energy boost. We deliberated our options; we could either keep cycling to Mae Sot, in the dark (as it would be dark in about 40 minutes) and keep going to our booked accommodation, or we could find somewhere to camp and rescind our accommodation, losing out on about £8. We decided we could keep cycling until 6:30pm and decide then. 

The roadworks had closed one of the lanes which meant the huge lorries were crammed into one lane. You might just be able to spot me in this photo.

As Adam reached the top of that hill, I saw him cycle off the road onto the side. When I reached him, he beckoned me over, “Let’s camp here.” It was a great spot considering our location on the side of a mountain cycling through roadworks. There was some space behind several mounds of gravel, with some beautiful views of the rolling hills and mountains stretching out on one side, the busy highway behind the gravel on the other side. We decided to abandon our accommodation in Mae Sot, and began to set up our camp for the night. This was definitely the right decision. Cycling on such steep roads, downhill, with only our bike lights (no street lights here) to guide our way alongside heavy lorries through rough roadworks… it’s a recipe for disaster. The road was still busy even when the sun had set. Our number one priority on this trip is to stay safe (even though Adam wavers on the more dangerous side occasionally), and we felt incredibly safe, tired but immensely happy after our challenging day, snug in our tent on the side of a mountain. We lost £8 on our accommodation, but you can’t put a price on our safety. I would have been a liability cycling along these roads in the dark whilst so exhausted.

We were really happy to camp, and as we were at about 600m altitude, the temperature was ideal for camping. Blessed with a dry night, we were able to sleep without the waterproof cover on. Gazing up at the stars inside the tent, without sweating as we normally do when camping in Thailand down at sea level, it was an outstanding moment. 

Not the greatest night time photo but we will have better photos of our camping spot in the next days journal.

In a slight ‘rookie error’, we didn’t have any fuel for our stove, so although we had food to cook, we no means to actually cook it! Our dinner, therefore, consisted of half a loaf of bread with peanut butter and Nutella. We decided to save the passion fruit we had left and the other half of the loaf for breakfast tomorrow. We’ll be up early tomorrow as the sun rises. There’s another short (I hope it’s short!) climb to finish off the second big climb on this road, then downhill to Mae Sot, where we can get a proper meal and some fuel for next time we camp. 

Amazing memories made today. 😊 

Day 54: Khun Phawo National Park to Mae Sot

We awoke to the rare sound of Adam’s alarm at 0600. Knowing that the sun would rise at 0622, Adam had set his alarm to be able to take photos and get some drone footage of the sunrise. The early start definitely paid off. Looking out of the mesh windows on the tent, we saw the morning mist hovering delicately over the rolling, green hills. We were so happy we decided to camp last night, rather than pushing on to Mae Sot in the dark.

A bit of a cloud inversion in the valley below our campsite.

 

By far the best camp spot of the journey yet.

After we had taken photos and got some nice footage of our epic surroundings, we packed up our belongings and had another helping of peanut butter and jam sandwiches. As we set off, we had the joy of an amazing downhill. The cool, morning air whooshed in our ears as we enjoyed the stunning vistas. Again, we were delighted with our choice to camp last night, as we wouldn’t have been able to enjoy the beautiful views in the dark. In addition, our path was littered with the odd cone, roadwork sign, pothole and areas of gravel, so we were grateful to have sunlight to avoid these obstacles. 

Before long, the uphill slog we knew we still had to cycle arrived. But as we were rested and fuelled with enthusiasm, we tackled them head on and in high spirits. Halfway up this hill, we saw some buildings and a Buddhist temple on the right-hand side. Many of the vehicles passing were honking their horns long and loud as they passed. We came to realise that this was a sign of respect as we think this is a sacred temple in the Buddhist religion. We, of course, went to investigate and were blown away with the stunning golden Buddha statue, seven huge snakes towering over its shoulders. 

The Pha Wo shrine.

Our main priority was filling our water bottles, which we managed to do at a small cafe. Before we left, Adam asked a group of Buddhist monks who were having their photo taken if we could have a photo with them. They were more than happy to oblige, and one of the monks became very interested in our bikes. A guide who was with the monks came to speak to me, and explained that they were visiting from Myanmar. By crossing those mountains, we had entered a more diverse area of Thailand; being close to the Myanmar border, we began to see more Burmese people who trade and live in this area of Thailand.

A quick photo with the monks from Myanmar.

After a final short but steep stretch of road, we began the final descent into Mae Sot: 900m of blissful downhill. Again, my disk brakes took some hammering.

As we cycled into the outskirts of Mae Sot, we stopped off at a 7/11 to use the facilities and get our bearings. It was here that Adam received a message on Instagram from a friend he used to play rugby with at University. This friend’s cousin lives in Mae Sot; Adam’s friend thought it would be good to let us know in case we wanted to reach out and see a friendly, British face. Adam did just that, and we are so glad he did! Adam’s friend’s cousin is also called Adam (I’ll call him Adam B to avoid confusion!), and he replied to Adam’s message straight away. He didn’t hesitate in kindly offering us a free place to stay for the evening, and we graciously took him on his lovely offer.

So we spent the day exploring Mae Sot, cycling through the city without too much care for the direction. We came across an amazing, bustling market, where traders from Thailand and Myanmar come together to sell their vibrant, eclectic array of fresh produce and other things. It was an assault on the senses as we cycled slowly through the market: alive eels clustered together in a plastic bag swam around one another in a tangle. We bought fresh pineapple, which is quickly becoming a favourite, before we found a small roadside cafe for a proper hot meal.

We spent the rest of the afternoon in a lovely, aptly decorated cycling inspired cafe called ‘Braverly’, catching up with online admin. We blew our budget on cappuccinos, pumpkin and chocolate loaf and fresh lemonade: we felt like we deserved the treat after the recent days uphill climbs.

At 1700, Adam B came to pick us up from the cafe and drove us to where he lived, 12km from the centre of Mae Sot. It was immediately apparent that we would get on very well with him; the conversation was easy and Adam B was incredibly friendly, laid back and great to get on with. His 3-year-old daughter Esther, initially quite shy at first, would soon become Adam’s best friend. 

Adam B helping us load our bikes into his car to take us to his place.

Adam B filled us in on what he does out here in Thailand, so close to the border with Myanmar. He works for a school called ‘Morning Glory School’, which provides education and boarding for Burmese refugees. We learnt that the school has 400 students and 17 teachers. All of the students are Burmese refugees or migrants, whose parents are very poor, working as farmers. They are paid very little because of their refugee status. Due to the brutal civil war in Burma, many Burmese citizens were driven to seek refuge along the Burma/Thailand border. The majority of refugees are the ethnic minority in Myanmar, and are therefore subject to armed conflicts and/or horrendous human rights abuse and persecution by the Burmese military, resulting in their needing to flee for their lives. Morning Glory School is a Christian school, that not only provides a free education for these vulnerable children, but supports them emotionally and practically to endeavour to help rebuild their prospects for a brighter future. Most of the children attending the school live with their parents in nearby villages, in the most basic, wooden huts. Adam and his wife Nunu make several trips in their small school bus every morning from 0600 to bring the children to school. However, some of the children are orphans and live at the school in a boarding house. We learnt of one girl’s harrowing story: after her father abandoned her and her mother, her mother ran into a lot of debt. Unable to pay the debt, she sold her daughter to a Thai family. The family used her as a slave. After some time, the Thai family became afraid that they would be discovered by the police and accused of human trafficking (unfortunately not uncommon for these refugees), they abandoned the girl, leaving her outside Morning Glory School. Knowing that this girl had been treated like an unwanted dog, but was then given hope, care, an education and emotional support by the school really highlights their amazing work.

Pulling up to the school, several of the boys boarding at the school were on the dry, mud playground playing football. It is clear to see that this is not a wealthy charity; the school buildings are basic and built on uneven ground around an outdoor area, scattered with chickens, cockerels and roaming, friendly dogs. However, it is overtly obvious that this school is rich in care, friendship, joy, happiness and dedication to these inspiring children. Everyone living and working there is so happy, there is such a delightful atmosphere and ethos, we immediately felt at home.

We enjoyed the evening with Adam B and his lovely daughter Esther. Unfortunately, Adam B’s wife was on a trip to Myanmar so we didn’t get to meet her that evening. As she is Burmese, we were unlucky to miss out on her apparently fantastic Burmese cooking. However, Adam B kindly bought us some delicious Thai food, a Thai red curry type dish which was so tasty! We decided to take Adam B up on his gracious offer of staying for two nights, so tomorrow we will enjoy a relaxing day off the bikes, meet some of the children who live here and enjoy some home comforts – including proper English tea! 

Adam making friends with Esther.

 

10 comments

Love it, love it, love it. Again, I feel more connected to you with every little bit of information you share. Your narrative flows so nicely and it’s very interesting indeedio! X xxx X

Beautiful story telling, I could feel your efforts on the climbs. Love following your adventures

Thank you Peter. It’s been an emotional week, that’s for sure. Still plenty of climbing ahead 😓

Michael Lees

Hi Guys, cant see my last post, so just seeing if this works.

Hi Mike. We have a “spam checker” which holds the comments for review. They both came through with no problems 👌 (we get lots of messages from companies selling fake viagra and gambling websites, hence the need for a spam checker).

Michael Lees

Hi Guys, cant see my last post, so just seeing if this works.

Michael Lees

Hi Guys, first shout out to Adam for eating those bugs, well done to Lucia for resisting Adams attempts, to try and make you eat them. Second shout out is for Lucia, for getting stuck in cycling up them there hills, amazing well done true Yorkshire grit. Guys the hill tribes fruit market looked fantastic, the produce seemed a lot larger than grown in the U.K. from the photograph. Wow what a joy to camp out, look up at the night sky, and see all the stars with no street light to spoil the view, I am envious again, lets face it now many people get to experience this in all its glory.

Thank you, Mike. It’s Adam here (with Lucia next to me). Your words of encouragement are truly appreciated. That nighttime view from the mountain was a surprise treat. We weren’t expecting to stay there but that’s the beauty of travelling by bike. You never really know how your day is going to pan out. We’ve got plenty of hills ahead of us but that Yorkshire grit will hopefully see us both through.

MARK Hughes

Catching up with your fantastic blog. It sounds fantastic I’m so proud of you.

Glad you’re all caught up! Although there are hard times, the majority of our time is pretty epic! xx

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